Koi carp varieties: the complete guide to the 16 families and how to recognize them

At the edge of a koi sales pond, the labels look like a Japanese restaurant menu: Kohaku, Shiro Utsuri, Yamabuki Ogon, Ochiba Shigure… It's no wonder people end up saying "the red-and-white one" or "the yellow one." Yet these names follow a fairly simple logic, and once you know how to read three or four Japanese words, most koi varieties naturally fall into about fifteen major families. This guide gives you that framework, family by family, focusing on what really matters to a pond owner: hardiness, growth, and the level of care each group requires.

Where koi names come from: how to read a Japanese name

A koi's name is almost always a short descriptive phrase. It often starts with the color or pattern and ends with the type of fish. "Shiro Utsuri" literally means a black-based fish with white; "Ki Bekko," a yellow fish speckled with black; "Gin Rin," silver scales. Remembering a handful of words is enough to decipher most labels.

Two other terms come up constantly. Shiroji refers to the quality of the background white, while kiwa refers to the sharpness of the rear edge of a red patch. You will hear these terms whenever quality is discussed, regardless of the variety. Finally, the same koi may carry several labels at once: a “Doitsu Hariwake Gin Rin” combines scale pattern, color, and brilliance. It is not an additional variety, but a combination.

This breakdown also explains why the numbers vary so much from one book to another: some count around a hundred varieties, others thirty. In reality, competition judges group fish into categories (generally around fifteen, with variations depending on the organizers), and it is this family-based approach that we follow here.

The Gosanke: Kohaku, Taisho Sanke, Showa Sanshoku

The three “greats” alone account for a large proportion of prize-winning fish. They share a deep red, but their pattern structures differ.

• Kohaku: white background, red patches. Nothing else. It is the simplest variety to describe and the most difficult to achieve, because the slightest flaw is visible: yellowish white, faded red, blurred edges. The subtypes are named according to the distribution of the red (Nidan for two spots, Sandan for three, Inazuma for a continuous lightning-bolt pattern, etc.).
• Taisho Sanke (often shortened to Sanke): a Kohaku with small black markings added on the white and sometimes on the red. Traditionally, the head remains free of black.
• Showa Sanshoku: the opposite pattern structure. Black is part of the fish's structure; it wraps around the body, extends down onto the head, and often marks the base of the pectoral fins. The red and white are set within this black.

Distinguishing a young Sanke from a young Showa is the classic challenge for beginners, and even for professionals when the fish are very small. We devote a detailed guide to it, because this is where a large part of a fish's value is determined. Regarding quality and price, remember first that Gosanke do not tolerate approximation: a white background stays white only in clean water, and red fades in water that is low in minerals or too rich in organic matter. To get an idea of the budget, our article on estimating the price of a koi details the criteria that drive up its value.

Utsurimono and Bekko: black-based koi

Both families have black and a second color, which often causes them to be confused. The criterion is the placement of the black.

• Utsurimono: a black fish with another color overlaid on it. Shiro Utsuri (black and white), Hi Utsuri (black and orange-red), Ki Utsuri (black and yellow, rarer). The black extends onto the head and descends below the lateral line, as in the Showa, of which Utsuri is a close cousin.
• Bekko: a solid-colored fish (white, red or yellow) covered with black spots on the back only. Shiro Bekko, Aka Bekko, Ki Bekko. The head is generally clean.

Mnemonic: Utsuri looks like a Showa without red, while Bekko looks like a Sanke without red. The black on these fish is rarely “finished” at the time of purchase. In young Shiro Utsuri, it can spread for several years and completely transform the pattern. It is fascinating to watch, but it makes buying small specimens rather unpredictable.

Asagi, Shusui and bluish koi

The Asagi is one of the oldest varieties. Its blue-gray back has a network of lighter-edged scales, like a net, and orange-red appears on the cheeks, flanks and fin bases. A fine Asagi has a regular network and a clear, unmarked head.

The Shusui is the Doitsu version of the Asagi: the skin is scaleless, with a row of large blue scales along the spine and often on either side of the lateral line. The red follows the same pattern as in the Asagi.

Two other groups feature blue. Koromo are Kohaku whose red scales are edged with a dark blue border (Ai Goromo), creating a bunch-of-grapes effect as the fish matures. Goshiki (“five colors”) combine white, red, black, blue and gray on a reticulated background; their base color often darkens in cold water and lightens in summer. These bluish koi are generally hardy, and their beauty is revealed especially with age.

Ogon, Hikarimono and metallic koi

Hikarimono includes everything that shines. They are divided into three subfamilies:

• Hikari Muji: solid metallic varieties. Yamabuki Ogon (golden yellow), Platinum or Purachina (platinum white), Orenji Ogon (orange), Matsuba Ogon (scales with a dark center, pinecone effect).
• Hikari Moyomono: patterned metallic koi without a dominant black base. Hariwake (silver and gold or orange), Kujaku (a dark scale reticulation on a metallic white base with an orange pattern), Yamato Nishiki (metallic Sanke), Kikusui (Doitsu Hariwake).
• Hikari Utsurimono: black-based metallic koi, such as Kin Showa or Gin Shiro.

Metallic koi catch the eye from a distance and generally grow well. On the other hand, their shine reveals everything: a scratch, dull mucus, or cloudy water is immediately visible. Purachina even has its own care guide, because maintaining a brilliant platinum-white color requires real diligence.

Kawarimono: Chagoi, Soragoi, Kigoi, Ochiba

Kawarimono roughly means “the others.” It is the catch-all category for non-metallic koi that do not fit into any other family, and it is the one we most often recommend to beginners.

• Chagoi: brown-green, tea-colored, with well-defined scales. Grows quickly and large, and is renowned for being the friendliest koi in the pond.
• Soragoi: solid blue-gray, with the same temperament as Chagoi.
• Kigoi: solid lemon yellow, non-metallic. Very bright beneath the surface.
• Karashigoi: mustard yellow, often bred from crosses with Chagoi, large and calm.
• Benigoi: intense solid orange-red.
• Ochiba Shigure: blue-gray base with brown patches, “autumn leaves on the water.”
• Kumonryu: black-and-white Doitsu whose pattern can change dramatically with the seasons.
• Matsuba and Kage: pine-cone or reticulated shadow patterns.

These koi have an appeal that goes beyond their color: in a timid group, a Chagoi or Soragoi that comes to eat from your hand often encourages the others to do the same. They are also fish that retain their charm even when the water is not perfect, unlike a Kohaku.

Tancho and Goshiki: distinctive varieties

The Tancho is not a variety but a characteristic: a single red spot, preferably round, on the head, with no other red on the body. It evokes the Japanese crane and is one of the most sought-after koi. There are Tancho Kohaku (pure white with the single spot), Tancho Sanke (with the sumi of a Sanke), and Tancho Showa. Tancho is not necessarily stable: the spot may become misshapen or disappear over time, which is part of the risk when buying.

The Goshiki was mentioned above among the bluish varieties, but it deserves a separate mention because it changes considerably depending on the water temperature and season. Never judge a Goshiki based on a single winter observation.

Two other cross-cutting characteristics complete the classification: Kinginrin (reflective scales, often abbreviated as Gin Rin) and Doitsu (few or no scales). They combine with almost all families. Our guide to koi scales explains their origin and implications for maintenance.

Which variety to choose for beginners, and which for a show pond

The right choice depends less on your tastes than on your pond. A magnificent Kohaku in average water will become an average Kohaku; a Chagoi in the same water will remain a very beautiful Chagoi. Here are the main profiles we encounter when advising customers:

• First koi pond, recently installed filtration: opt for solid-colored Kawarimono and one or two Ogon. They forgive the filter's early mistakes and quickly become accustomed to people.
• Well-filtered, closely monitored pond, with a desire for color: add Asagi, Bekko, or Hariwake, which are easier to keep than Gosanke but highly decorative.
• Show pond (oversized filtration, regular testing, stable water): this is where Gosanke, Utsurimono, and Tancho truly come into their own.

Also consider the visual balance: a pond made up only of reds and whites can quickly look monotonous when viewed from above. One or two yellow, bluish, or metallic fish add depth. And regardless of the variety, the final size remains the same: an adult koi commonly exceeds 60 cm, which determines the required water volume far more than its color. For general guidance on raising them, our guide on raising koi carp covers the basics.

Summary table: color, growth, indicative price, hardiness

This table shows trends observed in garden ponds, not absolute rules: lineage, breeder and rearing conditions often matter more than the variety. Prices are expressed in relative levels, for equivalent quality.

To make progress, nothing beats observation. Place a koi in a clear tub for a few moments, look at it from above and then from the side, and photograph it in the same season each year. Within two or three years, you will see the sumi develop, the red become more refined or erode, and you will learn more than from any list of names.

Read also

Once you have chosen the variety, all that remains is to maintain it properly: How to care for koi carp?.

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Frequently asked questions

— How many varieties of koi carp are there?

There are more than a hundred variety names, but they are grouped into around fifteen major families. Competition classifications vary slightly depending on the organizers; the major groups remain the same.

— What is the difference between a Kohaku and a Sanke?

Kohaku are white with red patches, without black. Taisho Sanke add small black markings on the white (and sometimes on the red), but normally never on the head.

— Which koi variety should you choose to start?

Solid-colored, hardy koi: Chagoi, Soragoi, Ogon or Kigoi. They are robust, grow well, become tame easily and remain appealing even if the water is not perfect.

— Can a koi change color as it grows?

Yes. The black (sumi) of many varieties develops or disappears over the years, red can intensify or fade, and blue-toned koi become darker with age. This is normal and often sought after.

In summary

• A koi name reads like a description: base color, pattern colors, metallic sheen, scale type.
• The three Gosanke (Kohaku, Taisho Sanke, Showa) dominate competitions but require impeccable water quality.
• Utsurimono and Bekko are black-patterned koi; Asagi, Shusui, Koromo and Goshiki are blue-toned; Hikarimono are metallic.
• Kawarimono (Chagoi, Soragoi, Kigoi, Ochiba) are the hardiest and easiest varieties for beginners.
• Tancho, Kinginrin and Doitsu are cross-cutting traits that combine with the other families.

Last updated: October 3, 2026.